Refactoring cuisine: how an Iraqi stew sailed to Singapore
Jul 26, 2026 Refactoring cuisine: how an Iraqi stew sailed to Singapore There is a specific, sharp mist that hangs in the air when you slice into a calamansi. The fruit is small, usually no larger than a marble, with a thin green skin that yields an abrasive, floral acidity — something halfway between a key lime and a sour mandarin1. Last week, standing in my kitchen, I halved a handful of them and squeezed their juice into a Dutch oven full of simmering chicken and okra2.
- ▪Jul 26, 2026 Refactoring cuisine: how an Iraqi stew sailed to Singapore There is a specific, sharp mist that hangs in the air when you slice into a calamansi.
- ▪The fruit is small, usually no larger than a marble, with a thin green skin that yields an abrasive, floral acidity — something halfway between a key lime and a sour mandarin1.
- ▪Last week, standing in my kitchen, I halved a handful of them and squeezed their juice into a Dutch oven full of simmering chicken and okra2.
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Jul 26, 2026 Refactoring cuisine: how an Iraqi stew sailed to Singapore There is a specific, sharp mist that hangs in the air when you slice into a calamansi. The fruit is small, usually no larger than a marble, with a thin green skin that yields an abrasive, floral acidity — something halfway between a key lime and a sour mandarin1. Last week, standing in my kitchen, I halved a handful of them and squeezed their juice into a Dutch oven full of simmering chicken and okra2. Calamansi limes for sale in Vancouver’s Granville market. The dish was bamya asam. If you consult a standard cookbook, bamya is a Middle Eastern staple, a slow-braised lamb and okra stew whose character relies on a deeply savory tomato base heavily perfumed with garlic.
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